Dutchman Router Guide

By Rob RobillardWood windowsills take a beating from Mother Nature. Although sloped by design, a windowsill is still basically a horizontal shelf where water and snow can accumulate. Once water finds its way behind trim or beneath paint and caulk, the rot process begins. Ongoing exposure to this moisture will cause the windowsill to decay and worsen over time. When caught early, often a small epoxy repair is all that is needed.

1. Dutchman Router Guide Review

But when discovered late or left unchecked, the rot will penetrate deeper into the windowsill and even the wall framing, requiring much more extensive and more expensive repair later. Repair or ReplaceThe age-old debate of window replacement or window repair is a tough one to answer, but I’ll explain how I try to guide my client’s decision process.I look at the repair versus the replacement question as a business approach. What makes the most sense; based on time, budget longevity, and of course hidden costs. Occasionally wood rot only occurs at the nose of the window sill.When dealing with old historic windows, often times repairing is the only option. Many times these windows are protected by a city or town’s historic district commission specifying that the window details remain unchanged. Often times, replacement requires having a custom and costly window fabricated to match the style, look and dimensions of the existing old windows.Other circumstances where repairing may be an option is on higher-end homes with large expensive units, bay windows or multiple mulled windows. Many times these windows will have high-end trim, wainscoting or faux wall finishes that would add a multitude of extra costs if the window is replaced.I often opt for window replacement when the cost of the window, any interior work relating to the replacement and my replacement labor are equal to or less than the time I’d spend performing a quality repair.

I often see this as a realistic option on more modern homes when dealing with stand-alone window units and simple interior finishes and trim.Replaceable Sill NosingSometimes a windowsill has rot on the outer nosing only. Many newer windows actually have removable nosing that can easily be duplicated and replaced with Western Red Cedar, Mahogany or PVC.

Others are designed as one piece and need to be cut away and patched. Carefully rout out the old wood. Installing a Dutchman PatchDutchman patches are known primarily in carpentry, furniture-making and masonry. A Dutchman is a piece of wood or stone that is used to repair a larger piece, shaped so that it fills a void. In our case we cut the void and patched it with new wood—a Dutchman patch.If windowsill rot is confined to just a small area, a simple patch and fill is all that is needed. For larger sections of damage, most or all the windowsill may need to be removed and replaced.When performing a Dutchman repair we like to use Western red cedar or Mahogany for the patch. Both wood species have inherent insect- and rot-resistant qualities.

Use a Router to Cut Out RotWe use a compact router and guide to cut our Dutchman patch because using anything else does not provide a straight enough line for a tight glue joint.A router kicks up a lot of saw-dust, so sealing off the window is a must. Dust PreventionPrior to cutting out the rot you will need to take precautions to keep sawdust from entering the house. We use a product called Tape & Drape, a pre-taped masking film that unfolds to cover and protect various surfaces while painting.We then use painter’s tape to completely seal off the sides of the plastic, on the inside of the window, and then raise the lower sash to provide access to cut the sill with a router.

This process ensures a dust-free house interior. Secure the patch in the hole and fill gaps with epoxy.Once we determine where the rot ends and solid wood begins, we use that measurement plus the width of our router base to determine what size router guide we need. Small4-penny finish nails hold the guide in place, and these holes are later filled with epoxy. Cutting the Dutchman HoleWe set our “straight cut” router bit to cut approximately 3/8 inch deep all the way around. We then added small 1-inch strips to all template sides of the router guide and used the router to make a “stepped back cut,” cutting completely through the window sill. This takes several passes, each time deepening the router cut.We use this “stepped method” to increase our gluing surface and to provide a shelf for the Dutchman patch to index into and rest on.Smaller Rot SectionsWhen presented with smaller rot circumstances, not as deep, we only rout deep enough to eliminate the rot and cut into solid wood.

Prepare for the PatchOnce the routing is completed we vacuum the entire area and inspect the framing sub-sill for damage. If rotting, we may end up removing the window after all. If not, the repair continues. Finish the job by applying new caulk/sealant and a coat of fresh primer and paint.We use a chisel to square off the corners of the hole after routing. The Dutchman patch is cut on a table and miter saw to ensure square corners. Cutting the Dutchman PatchWe then take measurements and notes to make our solid Dutchman patch on the table saw.

The router rode along the sill, sloped 12 to 15 degrees, so we try to match the angle on our patch.We duplicate this slope with the intent of getting all the sides of the new patch to touch all the sides of the hole in the sill. This takes time to get right and ensure that we have a tight “dry fit” patch. Cut the patch into shape with intersecting rip cuts to create the stepped key effect.Gluing the PatchOnce we have a solid dry fit with tight joints we mix up our epoxy.We use West System epoxy, a versatile two-part, marine-grade epoxy that bonds and coats fiberglass, wood, metal, fabrics and other composite materials to provide superior strength and moisture resistance.The epoxy was designed for boatbuilding and repair and works great on windowsills, columns and other areas where gluing, filling and shaping are needed.We use the epoxy in two ways, as glue and as filler.

First we brush on the epoxy to all wood surfaces and then tap in the piece. It swells a bit, and a gentle hammer-tap against a wood block is needed to get the Dutchman in place.Once in position, clamp it or use a few well-placed finish nails hold it until the epoxy dries—usually 8 to 24 hours. Fill Any VoidsOnce the patch is installed, we mix up a batch of epoxy with structural filler to fill and overlap the seams of the patch and any nail holes created during the repair. Sand PatchWe wait 24 hours before sanding the patch and applying a quality oil primer to the entire windowsill. The painter will follow us with additional primer and two-coats of paint.Editor’s note: Rob Robillard is a professional remodeling contractor and blogger at.

We are about to get fancy up in here. We are talking a Bow Tie today. You can call them splines, Dutchman Inlays or even Butterfly Inlays, but today, we are all high class/red carpet type and we’re calling them a Bow Tie. With that said, I’m going to draw the ire of every fine woodworker out there and show you how to skip the chisels and hand cut inlays and show you how Lazy Guy puts a bow tie on in seconds rather than days. And no it’s not a clip on.But before we go there What Is A Bow Tie?I went “pinky out” fancy in the image above and made a three piece suit joining three separate pieces of material ( and this is for my first ever, go big or go home right? But I was already at home).

Thanks to the suggestion of friends on Instagram, I’m going to name it a “Tuxedo Bow Tie” given the stripe. The inlays provide stability across the joint of two separate pieces of material much like a pocket hole would ( but prettier) join boards for a table top.

You still have a glue up in the middle, but these bow ties lock it up tight and help prevent the piece from separating. In addition to bringing worlds together, it can also go double duty for damage control. If you have a split in your live edge, a bow tie will keep the pieces from splitting any more than they already have. So not only do they look good, they are actually functional too ( sort of like your current narrator).How Does One Make A Bow Tie Inlay?Generally, a fine woodworker would cut the inset into the top of the piece by hand with chisels and then use a saw for the inlay. My cuts are only but so good and accuracy is key here ( because they have to fit), so how do we get the same shape and look?

We cheat of course! My wife got me this great pictured above (.product links in this post are affiliate links). You’re going to need to get the same thing to repeat this process. It’s usually only $20 on Amazon, so that’s a great option, but you also need to purchase this. Rockler has their own as well, but I love Freud’s quality of bits and recommend that one. Oh, I guess I should mention you need a router too and it needs to have a plunge base.

I used my that keeps going down in price, but up in the hearts of its fans everywhere. But there was a problemSee the Gold Circle on the bottom? That’s called a bushing. This attaches to your router base and uses that little ring to trace the inside of the template to give you an exact cut out. Problem is it didn’t mount into the bottom of my Makita.

So I attempted to make my own router jig out of acrylic and failed ( pictured above). If you follow me on you can find the full story as to why there but heat and plastic don’t mix. So now what?I had to make yet another purchase For another $17, a reader let me in on the secret that you can get an after-market that would go right into my Makita.

I could even use my existing router plate. It attached in seconds ( once I got the bushing out of my melted acrylic) and I was ready to cut bow ties. See The Bow Tie Inlay Guide In ActionAs you see in the video above it’s actually extremely simple to use. You have your depth set, plunge your router base and then stay between the lines. Use your depth lock once you plunge the router and then just clean out the middle. I did stop twice to clean out the debris and see what I had missed, but it’s so quick and easy ( like your mom).I’d like to point out that’s my first “Your Mom” joke of this entire blog.

I’m surprised I lasted this long (That’s what she said ) without one. First one of those too! The biggest question I’ve been asked is how does the template stay on the surface? The answer is magic or possibly double sided tape.

I picked up this from Amazon and I can tell you a little bit goes a long way. You do need to replace the tape after each time you stick it to a surface, two pieces of quarter sized tape will lock it down like Fort Knox.So You Cut Out A Bow Tie Shaped Hole Now What?Now you can remove the little ring on the bottom of your bushing ( it’s held by friction and magic) and run your router over your material you’re going to use for the inlay. I’d recommend adjusting your depth a little deeper on your bit so your inlay sticks out a little from your inset when you insert it. Then you can sand off the excess after the glue up.

You will use the exact same template, but because you’ve removed that ring from the bushing, the cut pattern goes a little wider. Trace only the outside edge of the bow tie this time when you use your router. You’ll be left with a bow tie outline. Cut off any excess material with your table saw and sand any rough edges.Depending on how thick your inlay piece is and how deep your router cut was, you might have to do a rip cut on your table saw to pop out your cut out.Drop In Your Bow Tie InlayWith your surface clean and your edges smooth you’re ready for the glue up. Add glue to all contact surfaces, pop them in and let them dry. I used TiteBond II for mine and let it dry overnight. I then came back with a belt sander and sanded off the excess.

Then hit it again with graduating grits of sand paper with the random orbit sander up to 220 with a glass smooth finish. You can fill any gaps with a combo of wood glue and sawdust, then sand off the excess again.

Dutchman Router Guide Review

You’re now ready for the formal bow tie party.Lazy Guy.